It is no secret the rest of the United States is buried in snow and ice. The jet stream, the high-altitude current of air that moves rapidly from west to east across the North American continent is coming to the United States from the heart of northwest Canada and points north, and everyone is looking very seriously at going to Hawaii, Mexico or California to escape the unrelenting cold.
Take a break from that misery and visit us here. The weather is predicted to be fine for at least the next week, and there is no snow at all here on the central coast. Chilliness extends down into the 40s at night, rarely into the 30s (Fahrenheit), so you will need a few layers of cool-weather clothing to be comfortable. Let me say right off I have no real recommendations on where to stay because I've just lived here, never stayed in hotels. Prices for hotel/motel rooms seem to range from about $60 to $600 a night, which is just nuts. Trip Advisor and other online sites are pretty accurate as far as I can see.
So, restaurants. I'm going to assume you're waking up hungry and want to eat a bit more than a croissant and a cup of espresso. A very popular place with locals and visitors alike is First Awakenings right near the Aquarium, and it can be reached on foot from either Monterey or Pacific Grove since it's also right by the Recreation Trail. They don't take reservations, and if you go on the weekend after 10 AM, you're going to have a wait. Portions are large, fresh and very tasty. They put a whole carafe of coffee on the table as well as a water pitcher, and you can have fun shooting pigeons and sparrows with water pistols if they begin to be a nuisance. Our other favorite place is Holly's Lighthouse Cafe in downtown Pacific Grove, probably the most local-flavor cafe in the area besides The Old Monterey Cafe on Alvarado in Monterey. Both are friendly and offer pancakes, omelets, breakfast burritos and keep the coffee coming.
Bring a day pack and consider a good long walk and outdoor picnic lunch somewhere, almost anywhere, as this area is well known for naturally spectacular sights. Google Nob Hill market in New Monterey, Grove Market in Pacific Grove or any supermarket, pick up some cheese, locally baked bread, sliced meat, fruit and drinks, fill your pack and head over to Asilomar State Beach or Carmel River State Beach where parking is free and where nature gives and gives all you can handle all day long. Restrooms are available at Asilomar Conference Grounds uphill from the beach in Pacific Grove and you should see signs for it. At the Carmel River State Beach, there is a public restroom right next to the parking lot. Just beyond that beach (accessed by going west on Rio Road and following signs past Carmel Mission and then Mission Ranch, which Clint Eastwood owns, to get to the beach. You'll be driving through a well-established and classic California-style residential area worth driving slowly through.
If you want to go farther afield, take the backpack down to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, pay the ridiculously low fare to get in and enjoy your day. Buzzard's Roost Trail is a steady uphill that is wide and easy to follow and will afford you a beautiful view of the Big Sur Coast that will have you reconsidering possibilities in life in a good way.
So, you've spent your day out hiking, beach combing and ogling nature, and your appetite is kicking up again. If you're way down in Big Sur and want to stay on a little longer, you have some choices. Huge favorite with locals and visitors is The Big Sur River Inn where food has really improved in the past five years. You have the option of taking your burger or other portable food item down to the river and sitting in chairs in the stream while you eat. It's quite a treat. Famous places that ooze Big Sur? The Big Sur Bakery, Nepenthe (a view that will make you weep), Ventana Inn (keep weeping, view's fantastic if you sit outside) or Deetjens, but check to see if dinner is available. It's a legendary and wonderfully whimsical place.
Not ready for the 30-mile trip down to Big Sur? Well, make sure you go sometime in your life; it's very special. But, okay, so pizza might be good. Google Gianni's Pizza in New Monterey. Very busy, energetic and delicious. Consistently good, and kids really love it there. A sure bet. Locally here in Pacific Grove pizza is great at La Piccola Casa on 17th St, a tiny little converted Victorian house that's neat as a pin and offers food that will make you want to sing Neapolitan songs.
Feeling romantic and want the best food on the Peninsula? Well, you would do well to decide what kind of food that might be. There are that many good choices. Okay, so it's seafood. Passionfish. Hands down. Why? It's all locally sourced, sustainable-harvest, intelligently produced delicious food. If I were eating the food at home, I'd be licking my plate.
Not focused on seafood but still want romance? Bistro Moulin near the Aquarium on Wave Street. The chef really knows his food and has a large following around here. They do have seafood items, but there are other choices, too.
Cheap eats? Papa Chevo's on Cannery Row at the far east end. Giant burritos for $6 or so. Ambrosia India Bistro for their lunch buffet. Hula's Island Grill in New Monterey is fun and donates a lot to local charities. Island style food and great energy. There are a few more choices, but these stand out.
Most hospitable, everyone-loves-everyone and the music is wonderful? Dametra Cafe in Carmel. It's jammed every night - lunch is a good option - for a good reason. You will feel, as everyone does, that Faisal, the owner is your long-lost brother and has missed you all these years. You most likely will hug and kiss him by the time it's time to go. I'm not kidding.
I have lots more to say about food choices around here; I'm only getting started, but this will give you some options. It is probably true that if you wanted to eat at a different place every night of the year on the Monterey Peninsula, you could do it without much problem. Amazing.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
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1 comment:
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