No Place Like The North Shore

Waikiki is one version of paradise, if you like shopping and thousands of shuffling tourists everywhere, but the naturally gentle feeling of the air and water  make it feel a lot like perfection no matter how many people you see.  Waikiki and most of the leeward side of Oahu including the southern, southwestern and western areas from Hawaii Kai up to and past Hickam Air Force Base are thick with people and cars.  That includes greater Honolulu and neighboring communities, definitely Waikiki.

But, complain as you might about traffic density and human impact on the island, step into soft morning air and then into gently surging waves of ocean water that's about 77 degrees and your fussing stops.  It's so easy to fall in love with it.

Today, we walked from our hotel to the Moana Surfrider two or three blocks away, admired their lovely open lobby and veranda where you can have tea in the afternoon under the shade of a giant banyan tree, and then walked over to our favorite, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.  Nicknamed The Pink Lady for the bubblegum pink color of the Spanish Colonial style of the original buildings, the hotel is surrounded by high rise modern structures where once she stood alone with tropical gardens all around her.  The nearest hotel was the Moana Hotel, both of which still appear far more stylish and beautiful than anything that has been built since.

We splurged on a delicious breakfast on the open veranda under the shade of pink umbrellas.  Gracious and excellent service marks the restaurant as well as the entire hotel as proud grande dame from a bygone era.  There is a hat shop on the property that sells fine handmade Panama hats.  I tried on my dream hat - a beautiful ladies summer hat that felt like a feather on my head and fit perfectly.  It's a hat that needs a hat box, a pretty dress, good jewelry and an estate to live on.  $200 is too rich for me.

After a quick walk back to the hotel, we hit the road north and then east to Kaneohe by way of Interstate Highway 3 (H-3).  Yes, there are interstates in Hawaii, but it's due to a technicality, I've heard, allowed because the highways connect federal lands together (military bases).  Yeah, I know.  H-3 is a spectacular 10 mile highway that goes from the leeward side of the island, through the high jagged peaks  by tunnel, and then suddenly out the other side where you skirt the mountain side and see the eastern, windward coastline, far below.  We drove that way just to get the view, which is stunning.  Then, winding north along the coast road with the top down on our convertible, we drove through small communities of a more rural quality and past roadside huts selling souvenirs and pineapples.

We continued all the way to the north shore where Sunset Beach, one of the main surfing areas in the entire world, is currently hosting the Triple Crown of Surfing for the next week.  I'd have loved to have sat and watched the waves and surfers out in the far break for hours, but we had to get going after a short while.  The best waves we saw were about head high there, breaking about a half mile out at most. I've never been lucky enough to see giant waves on the north shore, but when a big swell is on its way, the crush of surfers who head for the area is epic.  Parking becomes a horrible mess and spectators line the beaches high out of harm's way for miles.  I'd go anyway, just like all of them, to see the spectacle of such power and beauty.  Nearly everything about North Shore is surfing, made even more fabulous by the rugged open land and agricultural region of the whole north end of the island.  Distant high mountains and big cumulus clouds piling up in the west create quite a backdrop for the long tawny beaches and aqua-blue sea.

We stopped for a late lunch in historical Haleiwa and then drove home again, getting caught in rush hour traffic in the last few miles.  There seems to be no really good time to get to the north shore except very early in the morning.  Beaches have free access, some offer showers to rinse off sand when you're done and lifeguard towers.  I've been to the north shore a handful of times and I've never gone away unhappy.  There's always something beautiful you can never get enough of, and you always want to go back.  Always.

The Windward Side on a Windy Day

As it happens, winter comes to paradise just as it does in other dots on the globe.  Winter, Hawaii style, consists of blustery wind, some rain and not as many flowers blooming; a sort of lesser degree of paradise. I've been in a sleeveless shirt and short pants all day.  72 degrees and widely scattered smiles.

Heading north of Honolulu this morning in the rain, we took H-3, the zillion-dollar "interstate" highway that connects the military community north of here, heading east to Kaneohe on the windward side where there's another military community.  Up over the pali (cliffs) you go, then you enter a long tunnel that angles downward and still eastward through what seems like more than a mile of highway.  You emerge to view an eye-popping vista of the beautiful tropical windward side of the island.  Compared to the leeward side, this side is wetter, greener and much more in keeping with what you imagine a tropical paradise to look like.  The highway skims along the mountain side, over the tree tops and curves gently to the south.  Very impressive.

We headed southward to Kailua, a thriving community with some interesting places to visit, including a large multi-ethnic, multi-religious cemetery and memorial that, in my opinion, features a beautiful Chinese pagoda and reflecting pool with koi.  It's serene, peaceful and immaculately kept.  You're noticing by now that I haven't remembered the names much as I write.  I didn't take notes today and I don't have a guidebook, so I'm not much of a travel help; I'll write the names after I've researched a bit.

There is a very pleasant coffee shop, Morning Brew, in Kailua where we had breakfast pizzas and I had a cappuccino - large, frothy and beautifully topped with a leaf pattern formed by the coffee traced through the foam.  Well done, barista.

Then, we succumbed to the allure of a terrific bookstore next door called The Book End, a combination of new and used books -- classic literature and modern works -- complete with stacks of books from floor to ceiling.  Amazingly enough, after at least an hour of browsing, we each bought one book apiece, quite a feat of self-control.

After tearing ourselves away from the stacks, we pointed the Mini Cooper north past Kaneohe Bay to tour the northeast and then north shores as we made the loop of the island.  The little car was fun to drive along the winding course, sporty and responsive in the corners and traffic where we encountered it. The coast is dotted with what are tiny communities made up of a very few ramshackle homes as well as long stretches of public beaches.  The ocean was choppy and the wind fairly high, so there was no chance to swim or sun.  Jagged remnants of old volcanoes whose sides are covered with lush growth loomed on our left.

Onward past shrimp shacks and Turtle Bay, a giant-sized "resort" that's far from any of its peers in Honolulu.  Then the mecca beaches of Sunset, Waimea and Pipeline came into view on the left, world-famous on good days, but blown out today and dangerous.  Only a few surfers were in the water at Waimea, but the conditions were pretty marginal.  No chance for sun or sightseeing outside the car.  At one point at the east end of Sunset Beach, tourists were admiring three kite boarders -- surfers who use a parachute to power their surfboards over the waves.  They were ripping fast, back and forth far offshore, looking impervious to the wind and choppy surf.

That was it for us.  Back home for dinner with some friends, and we were happy and content.  The wind continues for now, but they say this is what we are to expect in the winter here.  Not so bad.