Looking back at Portland

I am not in Portland, have not been in Portland since Monday. This is Thursday.

The sky here in Monterey has retreated behind its coastal gray blanket of clouds. If I were to stand up on my rooftop, the peak of the rooftop, and look way over east, I might see a lighter version of gray than I see directly outside my window. If I were a bird, I'd head there now to find warmth and bright daylight that changes by the hour as the sun, which would be visibly  bright in the sky, arced across the span of blue from east to west.

No, I am not in Portland, but I have brought home my experiences and impressions, my mind stamped like a paper in a letterpress, a first and lasting collection of images.

Monday took us to the Columbia River Gorge. We only had a few hours to drive around, head off the Interstate to find views of the river, the bluffs, the mountains, and the smoke-haze-veiled trees. A fire was burning somewhere in the distance. It made all the long views of the river appear to be paintings done by traveling artists in the Lewis and Clark expedition. Short of actual leaping salmon in the wide and very grand river, the beauty and riches of the river gorge were splendid.

Of course we went to Multnomah Falls and had a little hike up to see the pretty scenery, doodled around in the gift store, bought a fridge magnet and wondered if we could just go AWOL from both our jobs.

Nope. We had to leave.

I'll go back. I talked to a young woman at breakfast at Besaws Cafe (Do not hesitate; go there. Diners cling to their table, chain themselves to the chair until they have savored every last morsel.) who said she'd grown up in the area, left for a number of years and always found herself coming back again. She gave up and moved back and feels content, satisfied and energized by the city. I understand, not because I am looking up at the fog here, hearing the seagulls' hoarse shrieks and empathetically feeling a kinship with Pacific Grove (I'm not), but because Portland is a fine place, and its people respond to it with a deep resonant love that plays out in a thousand interesting ways. It kind of gets to you. Right in the heart.

Walking Downtown Portland

It's late afternoon, and Portland is squeezing the last juice out of a fine weekend. We are walking on a long street to the heart of town, the muffled rumble of traffic resounding from the freeways in the near distance. I could mistake it for the thumping rumble of surf back home. I can't get my bearings except to heed the order of the street names. We're heading downhill to the river, which, like the Seine does in Paris, bends around Portland's edges. It's no use to use it for a landmark.

What you see in Portland you also see in other pretty American cities: Shade trees, bike lanes, large homes built in the '20s or earlier, now restored or converted to condos or apartments. Benson Bubblers? Only in Portland. Bubblers are curiously unique and generous creations that date back to 1912, kind of a four-bowled drinking fountain that flows with sweet fresh water continuously from early morning to late at night. I see them very randomly while out walking. I've read there are 52 of them around the city. Fresh water is provided for you without request, effort or payment asked. All you do is bend over and take a long cool drink.

The walk is taking us to the Pearl District where I will find REI. I've heard it's big; I need socks. It is big, and the clerks use little devices to ring the sales and email you a receipt if you wish to have one. Seems pretty simple. I want to buy everything in the store, as usual. I end up with no new socks, but two new tops that are on sale. Not sure how that happened, but it did.

Then, onward along more streets, all very easy to walk as they are narrow, pretty flat. The have interesting buildings that line them now that we are in The Pearl District, a more funky and artistically hip area. On we stride until we reach Powell's City of Books, a ridiculously enormous bookstore. Well, it's two bookstores or at least two buildings four stories high. It's the bookstore of my dreams, of any reader's dreams. You need a map to find your way around. How did this happen? Why has it not happened everywhere? Barnes and Noble as well as other bookstores are going ten toes up, dying sad deaths, but Powell's is robust and vigorous.

As the light fades slowly away, hunger rises, and we dither about trying on the ideas of movie or dinner or both. Dinner wins. Jake's Grill is nearby, a place we'd staked out two nights ago when my shoes were blistering my feet (different pair than tonight). The streets are quiet as it's Sunday, and that magic hour of evening light mixed with the day's last glow is upon us. I keep my eyes open for photography possibilities, but we have ducked into the restaurant before I can really get any shots.

Jake's is in a beautiful historic landmark building built in the early 1900's in the arts and crafts style, each bit of it hand made. It was called The Seward Hotel back in its original iteration, was restored in the 1990's and reopened as The Governor Hotel with Jake's established at that time. It's bones are evident in mica lampshades, heavy wooden beams, high painted tin ceiling in the dining room and the pattern of mosaic tiles on the floor. After dinner, we snoop further into the hotel's grand dining rooms and lobby. There is a glowing mural of the early settler's days along the Columbia and deep old leather easy chairs it would be wonderful to sit down into. The fire is crackling nearby. Surely, God lives in a place like this with fine leather chairs and his feet up for the evening.

We must be off to our hotel. We are weary and our eyes are drooping. The moon is hauling up into the night sky. I listen for the creak of winches pulling it up. Portland is a workingman's town historically. I'd think a moon lift must exist here, invented by some enterprising man with a gleam in his eye back in the town's early days. The gleam is still there, and I've seen it in many an eye in the past few days. Good night, Portland.

A Different Portland

Food trucks and breweries are breeding like rabbits in Portland. It becomes much more evident the farther away you go from Nob Hill. There are a few food trucks back in The Groove, where I live, but it's nothing compared to P-town (I'm picking up the names for this city, like pennies off the pavement.)

We are driving now, searching for The Big Egg, a food truck with some notoriety in that devotees write long drooling sentences about the delectable Steak and Egg Sandwich they serve. I just want to see a newer version of Portland, still seek the organic upheaval of creativity that lies behind so many things done so well about town. It's Sunday and brunch must be considered with all due respect.

Mississippi Avenue is straight ahead now, and I'm thinking, here we go, this may be ground zero for creativity, where neutron bombs of inspiration go off. There on the left is a converted parking lot with a shade tent down the middle and the periphery lined with little trailers. The near trailer is bright yolk yellow, the Big Egg we seek. People are milling around, but they look patient and a little sleepy. More interesting hair styles are worn by the young men who also have very thin legs and tall narrow bodies. A young woman walks by wearing Converse high tops and bright orange leg warmers. We're here.

"The wait will be about 55 minutes!" calls a young woman scribbling orders furiously at the counter window of the trailer. We order a PDX and a Steak and Egg Sandwich. I have no idea what I'm in for, but with this many people crowded around willing to wait, I'm good for the hour as long as I have some Stumptown Coffee (Portland's morning nectar).

We set about casing the Avenue and find a row of businesses in a brick-front building. I like the looks of it. A crow sitting on a crowbar, black on gray, is understated and funny. Across the street is a lighting store with what looks like the history of lightbulbs displayed on filament lines in its front windows. A concert venue is closed but looks well kept and on the rise. Gravy, a local cafe, has attracted another patient crowd of mostly twenty-somethings who chat in quiet voices out on the front sidewalk. The inside is jammed. Business is very good.

Back at the food court, we count about 10 trailers, most of which are closed. The Big Egg and a trailer selling biscuits and gravy, grits and bacon sandwiches are taking constant orders and working like the devil to get their orders out. After more than an hour, ours is ready.

Damn! Somehow, they have created a juicy but not soggy grilled sandwich with gourmet flavors including a delicate mustard that counterbalances the melted cheese and ham. It's not massive, but it is a piping hot sandwich with calories leaping off of it straight onto my waistline. I am transported. We thank them as we leave. They grin and glow with pride - a common and very appealing trait among Portlanders.

Mississippi Avenue is emerging - or a cynic could say it may be in a state of arrested decay - from a corner of North Portland where it sits in isolation, like a kid sent to sit in the corner as punishment, separated from the downtown rush and roar by the river, rail yards, industrial steel and graveled lots. It feels resurgent to me. Crummy low-rent old homes with sagging porches on one block have as neighbors some real beauties - Arts and Crafts bungalows, Victorian family homes where care as been given to the yards and structures. It could go either way, but my sense of it is, it's going pretty well.

Something's Missing

I am rested after all the walking in the morning. My legs and feet have ceased their complaints finally. It's time to get out again. My husband rejoins me after being gone on business all day, declares his stomach empty, a need to fill it. I tell him about my walkabout, confident that I can suggest dinner at any number of places nearby. Paley's Place is so close that I can hear the kitchen clattering, and Marrakesh (Moroccan food) is about to float up into the night air on its own cloud of cumin, cardamom and lamb braising with onions.

No, they will not do tonight, he says. We ramble up Northrup to NW 23rd St and turn left toward the cafes I'd seen earlier. There are young people sitting, strolling, texting and chatting everywhere we look. Cars make their way hesitantly up the street, progress interrupted by jaywalkers and couples on the move. Pizza, burgers, pubs, more pizza (including Escape From New York, which would be my choice if you were to ask me, based on the way pizzas were getting slung about by young men with interesting haircuts) and finally Santa Fe Tacqueria. Bingo!

Santa Fe has a barn-like interior with spray-painted murals of heroic Aztecs frowning down on us from all the walls. The food crew are quick as cats. These are cheap eats, in distinct contrast to high-end Higgins the night before. It seems we shall average out our expenses to about mid-range after all. The place, empty when we arrive, quickly fills, the energy rising in the room along with the decibel level. It's a place that could just as easily push back the few middle tables, put on some salsa music and attract a partying crowd. I inhale a ceviche tostada and his carne asada burrito evaporates in mere minutes. We are happy.

Out into the night, we walk along and window shop, talk about the day, compare this place to Berkeley, Santa Cruz, and other college towns. It has all the usual high notes: pizza, coffee joints, pubs, New Age bookstores, high end corporate stores and foodie havens.

We surprise ourselves and begin to plan our breakfast destination. With full stomachs. At the end of the day. Right?

I continue to feel that I have not really discovered anything yet, except that I am interested in finding the heart and soul of Portland. It isn't here. There is a cushion of safety and connectedness here in the Northwest End that is pleasant for a vacation. I feel complacent here in this part of town, pretty as it is. I have found no local art yet and no evidence of anything distinctly different than other college towns with affluent students. Not complaining, mind you, but I am aware I am still hunting for something from the blood, sweat and tears of the place. Is it a reflection of my own inner search? Travel almost always is a parallel journey, the outer reflecting the inner one.

On Foot in NW Portland

I am on foot today in NW Portland, and it's time to get out there and see it. Being alone in a city for the first time in a year or two makes me feel, oh, like my compass is spinning a bit. Time to case the neighborhood, orient myself and see what's going on.

Up Northrup Street two blocks from my hotel (Inn at Northrup Station), I walk east to find the boundaries of the neighborhood and then north again, uphill. The eastern boundary is easy to find as prosperity dwindles down to a sparse and barren area that abuts a freeway. Going north there are clots of cafes and neighborhood businesses. Homes that I guess date to about 1910 predominate. Virtually all are well kept and attractive, indicating some kind of money in regular doses being applied to maintenance and upkeep. Young women with the fixed gaze of connected effort trot by. Parents with strollers are on the move, shoving the complicated baby movers ahead of themselves. Their chins jut a bit; they look inspired, righteous. It's Saturday midmorning, and the day is in full swing.

I walk up a gradual incline along what seems like miles of straight lanes lined with beautiful elm, poplar and maple trees. The neighborhood is well established, a little lumpy in the sidewalks and pleasing. After taking a zig-zag route I turn left and soon find a large pretty park where children are yelling happily as they rush away from their parents. Dogs are corralled in a large dog park under more leafy elms and a group of young men are playing flag football. It's a modern tableau representing young urbanism, filled with health, vigor and self-aware coolness. America is doing well here it appears. I turn left again and go back downhill, past more handsome Victorian homes and Arts and Crafts bungalows. It's very appealing, this successful and vigorous lifestyle playing out all around me. Youth is on the move, on its way to a safe middle age someday.

On 23rd Avenue, the business community is shaking out its doormats and flipping signs around, from "closed" to "open." I see a tall hill behind them that locals call Nob Hill, a prominent ridge that affords a grand overlook for miles around. That's where the enormous mansions reside, easily dwarfing even the most substantial residences I've been walking among all morning. Down along this avenue, cafes and pubs stand shoulder to hip. I try to imagine their crowds later in the evening. I am in a walking mood and keep moving. From the look of it, all citizens have set forth in jog bras and Nike shoes.

Ahead of me, one man is talking loudly, frowning, glaring at trees and fences, paranoid about the coming wrath of God and shaking his fist at impassive storefronts. They are silent. He finds no fight, shuffles through shadows along the sidewalk, anomalous amid the chic.

The sun is coming out, and I am working up my usual sweat, wishing I had brought something to mop my face. I am not a delicate rose that simply glows. My hair is damp and my face has rivulets. I've only been walking at a moderate pace. Imagine if I'd been running.

Taking this new distress as a sign to slow down, I am delighted to find a chocolate cafe. Having mostly sworn off of sugar and flour, I hesitate for a nanosecond and then yield to the seduction of Moonstruck Chocolate. Far better than coffee, I am convinced, is a small delicious Mayan Dark Hot Chocolate. I'm not sure how, but I manage not to buy any of their beautiful truffles. I might go back. It's likely.

I am refreshed, but if I sit any longer, I'll stiffen up and be unable to move. The rest of the walk is meandering, in and out of shops, up and down side streets until my legs and feet finally protest so loudly I cannot ignore them. I want to watch people and see how Portland - at least Northwest Portland - takes on life. The challenges they experience are not evident today. It is all a serene and harmonious morning. I will have to look further to find another layer of Portland life I suppose. A city this size must have more to offer than this perfection.

It is 80 degrees, nearly the end of September in Portland, Oregon, where I sit now, writing. I've just arrived, and I'm getting my bearings, looking for a point of beginning, a place to leave myself behind and see what's really here.

What happens next? It's a good question to ask myself. I am used to certain features of traveling: packing, looking online for things that might interest me, looking at maps and weather reports. But, I like to see what it feels like in a new place, let the place take me by the heart and lead me around. There may be an embrace, a fit of anger, and there may be a long relationship that begins. Who knows.

For me, a pretty quiet person, an introvert really, what piques my interest is listening to voices, seeing the landscapes and cityscapes as three-dimensional art in real time, feeling the movement and energy around me, and letting it move me. It's as much physical as emotional, internal and external. I travel; I learn.

Portland moves as cities usually do, with pace and sound. It has a pride and sense of itself that derives from its geology and geography. Big hills roll up and away from its big rivers, and grand mansions stand on high promontories above the riverbanks. The symmetrically arranged grid pattern of suburban streets and avenues further away are interrupted by the random wandering paths of streams and rivers.

It's Indian Summer, a warm incongruity that doesn't seem to match my vague idea of what the northwest should be. On a day so warm and languid as this one, the complaints I've heard of rain upon rain upon moist cold ring false. From what I see around me, this is a fine, easy town, used to warmth and an outdoor lifestyle.

What did I do today?

I arrived. That's an accomplishment sometimes, I have to say. There was a bland lack of challenge in it at first, but Portland doesn't sit around for long, waiting for a person to wake up to it. There is energy here, not restless and unruly so much as undaunted by problems, a town walking into its future with intention. That sounds odd to me to say after only a brief time walking along its streets, but the set of the shoulders, the pace and look of the populace tells me that it is more that than not.

I didn't really get a sense of Portland ahead of time except that friends told me it's a pretty town (it is) and that there are good street cars and light rail (there is). Maybe I will admit to believing that Portland is a funny mix of tree huggers and rednecks. It might turn out to be, but I need to have a look, feel it out. Definitely, I did not expect the torpid heat.

But, that's the point of traveling. You get your mind set on an expectation so easily. Then, things pop up differently than you'd planned, so you have to listen more closely, see what's around you, learn it for what it really is. Lots of trees shade the streets. People are out walking, cycling, sitting in cafes, riding street cars and talking to each other. There is an air of self-acceptance and something else here. Independence?

I photographed roses by the millions in the International Rose Test Garden, rode the street cars around town and ate at a lovely restaurant (see? I am not a cagey, thrifty traveler!) called Higgins. I walked for awhile, heard young buskers playing plaintively on street corners that echoed the sounds of their violins and horns. I wore the wrong shoes, got a blister, and reveled in the warm night air despite the discomfort of my feet.

I am sitting here late at night, listening to the same echoing rumble I might hear at the shore of my own town when the waves of the ocean break, but there is the sound of humanity out there in Portland, voices and engine sounds coming through the night air in similar waves. In the morning I will wade in, up to my heart, up to my eyes and ears.